Mt. Elbrus is a sleeping volcano with the highest peak in Europe capped in ice. The slopes are covered with 22 glaciers. Take a series of cable cars and chairlifts on the south route up to 4,045 m, and then follow the flags toward the summit at 5,642 m. Along the way, rest at one of the barrels or diesel huts. From the top you'll enjoy views of the entire Caucasus. The north route, which is more challenging, features a rescue hut in the saddle at 5,400 m. Using our international travel planner, Baksan Valley attractions like Mt. Elbrus can form part of a personalized travel itinerary.

Mount Elbrus is a dormant volcano located in the western Caucasus mountain range, in Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia, Russia, near the border of Georgia. Mt. Elbrus's peak is the highest in the Caucasus, in Russia. While there are differing authorities on how the Caucasus are distributed between Europe and Asia, many sources agree that Elbrus is also the highest mountain in all of Europe, or the highest in western Asia, narrowly exceeding another volcano, Mount Damavand in the Alborz range in Iran. Mt. Elbrus stands at 5,642 metres; the east summit is slightly lower at 5,621 metres. The lower of the two summits was first ascended on 10 July 1829 by Khillar Khachirov, a Karachay guide for an Imperial Russian army scientific expedition led by General Emmanuel, and the higher in 1874 by an English expedition led by F. Crauford Grove and including Frederick Gardner, Horace Walker, and Swiss climber Peter Knubel. Climbing Routes: The Normal Route is the easiest, safest and fastest on account of the cable car and chairlift system which operates from about 9am till 3pm. Starting for the summit at about 2am from the Diesel Hut should allow just enough time to get back down to the chairlift if movement is efficient. A longer ascent Kiukurtliu Route starts from below the cable-way Mir station and heads west over glacier slopes towards the Khotiutau pass. Climbing Elbrus from other directions is a tougher proposition because of lack of permanent high facilities. Douglas Freshfield always maintained that a route from the east up the Iryk valley, Irykchat glacier and over the Irykchat pass on to snowfields below long rock ribs of the east spur would become the shortest and most used approach. Three permits are required for climbing. Foreigners need a Border Zone Permit to be in any area south of Baksan. Prielbrusie National Park Permit is required for access to the park. Foreigners also must be registered in OVIR in Tyrnyauz.

As the highest point in Europe and one of the Seven Summits of the World, Mt. Elbrus makes it onto most mountaineers’ bucket lists. This long-dormant volcano is situated between the Caspian and Black Seas on the rugged and dramatic Caucus mountain range between Russia and Georgia. Before attempting the peak, climbers get acclimated with hikes through the beautiful glacial valleys. Dig powder? Ski tours are popular in the Barrels Camp area before climbers begin their ascent. There are two summits to experience – Eastern and Western – and you’ll need glacier skills. Plan to overnight in the newer, more comfortable huts between the Barrels Camp and Diesel Hut area. By New Belgium Brewing

Cheget Peak isn’t just one of Russia’s premier ski and snowboard destinations; it’s an awesome acclimatization climb to the European peak of the Seven Summits, Mt. Elbrus. The Baksan Valley is remote, even for Russia. From the small Mineralnye Vody airport, it’s a three-hour drive to the valley proper, which hosts a number of villages with lodging, restaurants, and gear shops. You might be able to catch a bus to the valley, though these can be unreliable, so it’s recommended to arrange travel ahead of time. The trailhead for this hike lies at the end of Cheget Village, at the base of the ski lift. Here’s a local site that has some additional information on Cheget Peak. You have the following route options: Take the ski lift up to 9,800 ft., for a total hike of 2,000 ft. of elevation gain. Hike the trail from the village, for a total hike of 4,925 ft. of elevation gain. If you are hiking from Cheget Village, you’ll start on a wide path to the left of the ski lift behind Hotel Cheget. If you choose to take the ski lift up to shave off a couple thousand feet, you’ll wait until 9am. Either way, be wary of the weather and plan your timing accordingly. The trail up to the top of the ski lift consists of basic switchbacks and is easy to follow. Above the ski lift, you should be able to follow a faint climber’s trail that continues steadily up to the top. I did this without a guide and without any sign of other hikers on the mountain and found the summit easily. If the weather is good, you should be able to see the two towering summits of Mt. Elbrus looming in the distance. From the top, you’ll see a few more peaks stretched out along the ridgeline just ahead of you, but your climb stops here. Soak up the views of Elbrus to your northeast – most photos you’ll see of the mountain were taken from Cheget Peak. As mentioned above, Cheget is one of the most popular mountains in the valley for Russian tourists so there will be plenty of foot traffic on the mountain during the summer, though few – if any – will be heading for the summit. Ice axes and crampons should be carried, though may not be needed in mid-late summer season. Some significant red tape to this climb: Pay attention to local news and be wary before climbing Cheget Peak since it lies on the border between Russia and Georgia. You’ll actually be walking past giant Border Patrol signs along the hiking trails towards the main ski area. This SummitPost article from 2013 notes that the entire mountain was closed for the season due to border issues. Always carry your passport with you; you should be prepared to show identification and visa information at any time.

Note: As of July 22 2013, Border Guards have closed off access to Cheget Peak. I will update the details of situation as soon as I hear more. Message from Pilgrim Tours: There are many questions about the meaning and reason of the extending border zone to Cheget. There is no special reason. Formally Cheget always was within the border zone. The border post initially was right near the upper lift station. After that for some years the post was abandoned and it was allowed to hike there although possibility of closing that place always existed. We suppose closing Cheget is a part of entire policy about local border areas. Every year border rules become more and more strict in the area. Five years ago border permit may be made within a couple of weeks locally, than a month in Moscow, then 2, now no any term advised at all and 2 month minimum with no any guarantee. Which additional reason may be? Authorities do not want you there with or without permit and that's it. No official prohibition because formally permit may be received but virtually that is prohibition because no tourist company wishes to include that area into their programs. The Caucasus are one of the most rugged and spectacular mountain ranges in the world. Cheget Peak is only a class-2 scramble, but that's not true of the surrounding peaks. The peak is often used as an acclimatization peak for Mount Elbrus. Although the peak is dwarfed by its spectacular neighbors, Cheget Peak is a great little climb in itself and the views of the really spectacular and rugged peaks in the area are fantastic. The views of Elbrus are great too. Chances are, most "postcard views" of Elbrus you see on the internet or in books were taken from Cheget Peak. Although an incredible viewpoint, Cheget Peak itself is more of a false summit of Mount Cheget than a mountain all in itself. Even so, it’s a worthwhile climb and has some great views of Elbrus and Donguzoran. While the vast majority of people stop at Cheget Peak, experienced climbers can continue from the summit of Cheget Peak along the ridge to the summit of Mount Cheget. This is a technical mixed snow and rock climb. , Cheget Summit. The Peaks of ChegetSP member Sergey helped with the following information about the Cheget Peaks: Cheget in Balkarian means dark or black. In Elbrus region there are three mountains having such name; Cheget-Tau-Chana, Cheget-Kara and Donguzorun-Gitche-Cheget-Kara-Bashy or Maliy Donguzorun. On this the ski resort was created on the lower slopes, and skiers started to call this mountain Cheget. As the climbing object; the main Mount Cheget, wasn't so popular as Cheget-Tau and Cheget-Kara. Routes to these two summits are considered classical in this area. As Elbrus ascents became more popular Cheget Peak appeared to be very convenient for acclimatization especially when you are short of time and its popularity sharply grew. Then the track along the ridge to one of gendarmes was laid. And the gendarme got the name Peak Cheget or Cheget Peak. There are 5 routes to M. Donguzorun 3761 m: 1891, Mercbaher, From South, 1B 1938, Grechenin, East Ridge, 2A 1960, Zarichniyk, Western Ridge, 2B, Glushkov, Northern. Ridge, 2A 1960, Zarichniyk, SW Wall, 3A Getting ThereAs stated, the easiest way to travel is through a travel agency. Without one, travel is confusing, to say the least. Typically the travel/transportation goes like this: Fly to Mineralnye Vody, usually from Moscow, and from there, travel by bus to the Baksan Valley. There are usually 4-8 buses a day headed for Terskol, but it is highly recommended that you make transportation arrangements ahead of time. This is usually easy to arrange. Traveling from Moscow to Baksan Valley usually takes an entire day. The trailhead to Cheget Peak is actually at Cheget Village. Any local will be able to point you to the village. The trailhead is actually right at the base of the ski lifts right next to the village and behind the Hotel Cheget. You can't miss it., Cheget Peak as seen from a road in Baksan Valley looking to the direction of Cheget/Terskol/Azau. Routes OverviewThere appears to be many challenging routes on the mountain, but just about everyone seems to take the Cheget Villiage Route. Furthermore, most climbers actually cheat and ride the ski lifts to the 2750 meter level. There once was a lift to 3005 meters, but it wasn't working as of 2003. The lifts run from 9 am to 4 pm. Purist can follow the steep trail underneath the ski lifts to the top terminal. Breifly put: From the top of the lift, follow the well used trail up the slopes. Most of the route is easy along the trail, but right at the end it turns in to a class-2 scramble. Before mid-July you should have an ice axe. If you have done any other routes on the mountain, please post the information., Elbrus from Cheget Peak. Red TapeRussia is not exactly the easiest country in the world to travel through, at least not for Westerners. The visa regulations and checkpoints can be a real pain. The easiest way to arrange a trip is go through a travel agency. There are several travel agencies to choose from, but it's much better to go through a Russian agency as a company from the USA or Europe will usually charge several times more for the same service. To obtain a visa you will have to have a formal invitation from a tour company in Russia. You won't save much money by trying to do it on your own anyway. One reliable and reasonable priced tour company is Pilgrim Tours. There are several other little permits, fees, and registrations you're supposed to obtain as well, such as OVIR registration, local fee, and sometimes a border guard reservation, depending on where you're traveling from. See the main Elbrus Page for political updates. I try to keep them up to date, but things change fast!, Views on the way to Cheget Peak When To ClimbJune through September is the normal climbing season. Before July, you will need an ice axe for sure. Bad weather can come at any time, so be prepared., Cheget Peak from teh trailhead. CampingThere are a few campsites around Cheget, but almost everyone goes on a guided tour and stays in a lodge. Mountain ConditionsNo mountain cams or weather links are currently available. The weather forecast is called in to the lodges daily, and is usually posted in the mountaineering store in Baksan Valley. Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction Viewing: 1-5 of 5