https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hudson_Stuck
Hudson Stuck (November 4, 1863 – October 10, 1920) was a British native who became an Episcopal priest, social reformer and mountain climber in the United States. With Harry P. Karstens, he co-led the first expedition to successfully climb Denali (Mount McKinley) in June 1913, via the South Summit. He published five books about his years in Alaska. Two memoirs …